Solo Travel in El Salvador: Safety, Places + Tips

I recently visited El Salvador as a solo woman traveller and what an experience it was! I can’t think of the last time I visited somewhere so underrated and friendly.

Although El Salvador shares many similarities with its neighbours, such as the language and topography of volcanos, lakes and surfable waves of the Pacific coastline, travelling there is quite a different experience. So forget about aircon tourist shuttles and gentrified cafes; this is an adventure… At least for now!

Planning a trip? See my El Salvador itinerary for 1-2 weeks

Solo female travel is the theme of my blog so I’ll be delving into the usual topics like safety and meeting people, but I’ll also share my favourite places, eats and hostels so whether you’re travelling alone or not, you can benefit from this guide.

Visiting Latin America? See my solo guides:

• Solo female travel in Belize
• Is Guatemala safe for solo travel?
• Is Costa Rica safe for solo female travellers?
• Nicaragua solo travel guide
• Is Panama safe for solo travel?
• Solo female travel in Mexico
• Brazil solo travel – safety & tips
• Colombia solo travel tips
• Peru solo travel tips
• Ecuador solo female travel
• Is Bolivia safe for women travellers?
• Things to know about travelling alone in Argentina
• Chile solo female travel guide

Is El Salvador good for solo travel?

Well, it’s not going to make any lists of the best places in the world to travel solo, let’s just say that. But I think that’s largely because of its past reputation.

I had a great time travelling alone in El Salvador and met many other solo travellers including other women. However, the transport is hectic to navigate and the tourist infrastructure isn’t as developed as nearby countries like Guatemala and Costa Rica. It’s doable but not always the smoothest.

Is El Salvador safe for women to travel alone?

Five years ago, the answer would have been no. Now the answer is yes.

Following the events of 2021 when the new president locked up around 80,000 young men suspected to be involved in drug gangs (a controversial move without trials meaning that some innocent people were presumably incarcerated, too), the country became largely safe overnight.

The majority of locals are in favour of their president’s actions and grateful for the increasing tourism. Although I’ve also found locals friendly in other Central American countries, I have to say that El Salvadoreans were the friendliest!

If you get lost or stuck, I can bet my bottom dollar there will be a nice local to help you. Statistically, you’re not likely to be victim to a crime now. In terms of violence toward women, the situation is far improved by the fact that the most macho men are now in jail.

However, cities do still feel a little sketchy with clear homelessness and poverty. So although you’re generally pretty safe, you don’t always feel overly comfortable during solo female travel in El Salvador. Knowing the difference between the two is a fine line that only comes with experience and an open mind.

Good things about solo travel in El Salvador

• Friendly locals – everyone was lovely and happy to help! When changing buses in Sonsonate between the beach and Ruta de las Flores, a local guy showed me where the bus went from and waited to see I got on it ok. So sweet!
• Good hostels where you can make friends with other solo travellers – I liked the Coffee Garden Hostel in Santa Ana (and also heard good things about Casa Coco and Casa Verde) and Que Ondas in Juajay on the Ruta de las Flores. For a boujee option at the beach, treat yourself to a stay at Lagarza Hostel.

Bad things about solo travel in El Salvador

• Getting around is hectic – chicken buses are often packed and uncomfortable, plus they’re prone to breaking down. Often you need to change buses when travelling to the coast and this can be confusing.
• People at home may be negative about your trip based on El Salvador’s old reputation which may make you question your decision or give you solo travel anxiety. Don’t let them put you off.
• El Salvador won’t impress gastronomic gals – although pupusas are tasty, I wasn’t wild about the local cuisine.

How to get around El Salvador alone

Car hire: although not always the best option for one, I made friends with another solo female traveller in El Salvador who had hired a car at San Salvador airport and taken a solo road trip. She’d had no problems and seen more of the country in less time than me (although spent a LOT more). Don’t rule it out. Check out Rentalcars.com.

Scooter: many travellers hire scooters along the Ruta de las Flores. Rent one from Samay Hostel in Juayua.

Chicken bus: these old US school buses gifted to Central American countries are the main form of public transport. Drivers decorate them however they want, often in crazy ways. You usually pay at the turnstile when you get on; the price is listed on the wall. Expect to pay under $1 for an hour’s ride.

Uber: within cities and even along the coast, there’s often Uber and it’s cheap.

Best places for solo female travel in El Salvador

I personally visited and can recommend…

Santa Ana

This small city is the launching point for Santa Ana Volcano and a hub for culture such as free walking tours and pupusa-making classes. It’s also close to the start of the Ruta de las Flores.

Santa Ana isn’t as picture-perfect as Antigua in Guatemala with all its idyllic coffee shops. When you get away from the main square with its grand, gothic cathedral, it’s a little rough around the edges with clear poverty. However, as a woman travelling alone, I didn’t feel unsafe.

Things to do in Santa Ana

• Free walking tour with Hector – one of the most unique tours I’ve done! Rather than a session with a historian, this is a walk with a local who has survived the violence and is open to telling you about it. Book on GuruWalk or simply show up, you don’t actually need a booking.
• Day trip to Santa Ana Volcano – the steaming crater is insanely beautiful, accessed by a climb of 400m. The bus departs Santa Ana terminal at 7.30am and returns from the volcano at 1.20pm, costing just 90 cents each way. Entry is $3 plus a mandatory guide ($3.50).

• Pupusa-making class – each night there’s one at Casa Coco Hostel for $15. Alternatively, support a good cause by doing one with a local family for $12. Follow this Google pin and send a WhatsApp to the number. Request the owner, Castor, joins and he’ll take you afterwards to speakeasy bars hailing from days when locals wanted secret, safe spaces away from the gangs!
• Climb the church tower for views of the town. I think I paid around $2 entry.

Where to eat & drink in Santa Ana

• Pupusas El Ceiba – the most famous spot in town with countless options including my new favourite filling of garlic shrimp. It’s a 15-minute walk from the city centre or call an Uber if you’d rather not walk alone in the dark.
• Pupuseria Claudia – healthier options including lots of veggie ones, right by the main square.
• Simmer Down – although I didn’t try it, I heard the pizza is good here. It’s one of the rare Western places in town.
• Beats Coffee Shop – coffee snobs like myself can’t miss this place whether they want a simple, strong coffee or creative options like espresso tonico, cold brew or orange coffee (fresh orange juice with a shot of espresso – delicious!). They have two cafes, one in Centro and the other at 3a Avenida.
• Note – in case you don’t know pupusas yet, these corn patties are the national dish, stuffed with copious amounts of cheese and every other filling under the sun.

Where to stay in Santa Ana

I stayed at the Coffee Garden Hostel, a new hostel run by a fellow Brit. It’s a lovely venue and you get a proper brunch-style brekkie included in the dorm rate of $14 per night. It’s also one of the few places in town serving speciality coffee.

Other highly recommended options for solo travel in El Salvador include Casa Coco, Ricks for a budget option, and Casa Verde for a boujee place with great reviews.

Ruta de las Flores

I liked Que Ondas in Juayua, run by the friendly Oscar. Downstairs is a quaint restaurant serving artisanal pizza, and upstairs is the peaceful dorm area. One room has bunks and one has four single beds. It costs $12 a night (not including breakfast but there’s a well-equipped kitchen and decent supermarkets in town).

I also heard good things about Samay Hostel & Scooter Rental, run by a friendly family. It may be the most convenient spot if you want to hire and explore the region by scooter.

Getting to Ruta das Flores

From Santa Ana: catch the chicken bus from Terminal Francisco for just 90 cents. It takes between 1.5-2 hours depending on traffic. On the way back, it leaves from Estacion de autobuses hacia Santa Ana in Juayua (not an actual station just a Google pin).

From the coast: you need to change in Sonsonate city. There’s an early morning bus (leaving El Tunco at 6.30am and passing Lagarza Hostel where I stayed at 7am) and an afternoon one (2pm and 2.30pm at the places mentioned).

On arriving at Sonsonate terminal, find the stand where buses leave for the Ruta stopping at Juayua, Apaneca, Ataco and Ahuachapan. I paid around $2 for the first bus and 90 cents for the second.

Note – although they can be busy and crowded, I always felt safe on chicken buses during my solo female travels in El Salvador.

Getting around the Ruta de las Flores

Honestly, having a car would be a dream here as you’d save so much time compared to taking the bus! The same goes for hiring a scooter which can be easily done at Samay Hostel.

One destination that’s easiest with your own vehicle is El Salto de Malacatiupan AKA a hot thermal waterfall you can swim in: the final 20 minutes is a bumpy dirt track so if you want to tackle it with a scooter, ask the rental first whether it’s suitable.

Otherwise, the Ruta de las Flores is a well-paved highway that’s easy to drive by car or scooter.

The option I took when solo was the chicken bus. This leaves from Estacion de autobuses hacía Sonsonate y Ahuchapan (more of a park than a station) in Juayua every 30 minutes or less and stops in Apaneca (famous for Cafe Albania and the rainbow slide), Ataco, and Ahuachapan (the town closest to the hot springs and waterfall).

Things to do on Ruta de las Flores

• 7 Waterfalls hike – I booked with Elizabeth on Whatsapp (+50361137277) and ended up with the guide, Elmer, who was fantastic! The tour was so much fun and only $10. I had previously heard about climbing a waterfall without ropes and was a little nervous. It was all ok and no one has ever been injured apparently, although it wouldn’t fly in Western countries! The tour departs at 8.30am from Juayua.
• Coffee tour at El Carmen – I paid $7 to tour the farm and do a coffee tasting. It’s a beautiful venue and the staff really know their stuff. My only comment was that it was a little long (nearly 2 hours) and the cafe on site didn’t have many coffee options. Luckily, it’s beside…
• Ataco town for murals, market shopping and cute cafes serving speciality coffee. I visited Axul featuring tasty brunch and arty souvenirs and El Café del Artista with a small art gallery inside. Be careful trying to walk up to the town’s panoramic viewpoint because I took a wrong turn and a dog bit me. Maybe avoid it altogether!

• Weekend food festival in Juayua with a vibey atmosphere and tasty, affordable food. Visit between 11am and 4pm on Saturdays and Sundays.
• Go on the rainbow slide at Albania Cafe in Apaneca town – it’s $5 entry which you get back as a token to spend on activities (including the slide, ziplining and riding bikes high along a cable) or food and drink. Otherwise, Apaneca town is pretty sleepy.

• Visit the hot waterfall, El Salto de Malacatiupan, known for its warm thermal water. Sadly, it’s not connected by public transport so best if you have a vehicle.
• Soak in the hot springs (Alicante or Santa Teresa near one another) – also easiest to visit with your own vehicle. I didn’t do this but I think the best way if relying on transport is to ride the bus to Ahuachapan then you’re an hour’s walk to the springs or maybe you can catch a tuk-tuk or taxi.
• Night market in Nahuizalco – this is an atmospheric local town where I didn’t see any other foreigners. There’s live music and loads of food stands 7 nights a week. I believe the last bus back to Juayua is at 8.30pm but verify with locals so you don’t get stuck there (I went with a new friend who had a car)!

The more touristic beach town is popular with surfers and beach dwellers. There’s plenty of accommodation and decent food options. The beach is better suited to surfing than swimming although you’ll see a few people in the water. There’s not much shade in the day so I recommend visiting in the late afternoon to watch sunset.

Where to eat: I had a healthy meal at JungleSv, excellent seafood at Esquine la Comadre and fish pupusas (a coastal speciality) at Mr Coffee.

Where to stay: For backpackers, the best options are Duck Dive from $10 and Dos Palmas (with luxury double beds from $20 and pool access).

El Zonte

I preferred the chilled, boho vibe of El Zonte to El Tunco but I believe there are fewer accommodation options. However, it’s easy to stay in one and visit the other by $1.50 bus or $4 Uber.

Where to eat: I heard good things Canague Cafe who serve just one sweet and one savoury brunch dish changing daily. When I visited, neither appealed so I went to Nan Tal for a bigger menu and beach views. For casual local eats, try Pupuseria Jeisi or Tres Olas (I loved the shrimp tacos here).

Where to stay: stay at Casa de Colores, a lovely new hostel with a pool from $15. Opt for a private room at La Canasta.

Best time to visit El Salvador

Definitely the dry season of November to April. Not only is May-October hot and rainy with more mosquitos, but things are quiet so you’re less likely to meet other travellers.

Since El Salvador just doesn’t get as much tourism as other countries in Central America, it being quiet is different to Guatemala being quiet (I visited Guatemala in the off-season and although it was rainy, I still met people and got good deals on accommodation).

I think it could be a lonely solo trip in El Salvador if you visit in the quiet, rainy season.

Staying connected – SIM card options

Claro is your best bet for a local SIM in most Central American countries. For $10, you’ll get a bunch of data and calls for 2 weeks.

If you want to be connected right away, for example after landing or crossing the land border, try an e-sim. Airalo are reliable with packages for El Salvador.

Do you need travel insurance?

Even though it’s safe now, yes of course you do! It’s the one thing I’ll never travel without.

I personally use True Traveller; for around $40 a month (based on getting a year’s plan), it covers you for pre-existing health conditions AND if you’re already travelling and/or don’t yet have your flight home booked. The claim process is easy; I’ve done it twice. Click to get a quote.

True Traveller is just for European residents (including the UK) so, for other nationalities, I recommend Hey Mundo and for long-term digital nomad travellers, I suggest Safety Wing.

Read next: everything to know about solo female travel safety

What to budget for solo El Salvador travel

Bed in a dorm: inland, budget $8-14 a night – the higher end will likely get you a decent breakfast. Accommodation by the beach is slightly more pricey and the most I paid was $22 at Lagarza Hostel but this did include double beds, breakfast and infinity pool access! I use Hostelworld to compare prices and reviews of hostels.

Private room: I’ve seen private rooms for as little as $12, but obviously you get what you pay for! I use Booking.com when I want some privacy.

Car hire: expect to pay $200+ for a week. It’s a lot when you consider how cheap chicken buses are, however if you’re short on time, it’s a game changer.

Daily scooter hire: expect to pay around $15 a day.

Street food: pupusas typically cost around 70 cents to $1. Live on them and you’ll have the cheapest trip of your life! 2-3 make a decent meal.

Restaurants: expect to pay under $10 for a decent restaurant meal even if it’s a steak or fish. At the food market in Juayua, I paid $9 for a platter of giant shrimp, rice and vegetables, and $6 for chicken and sides. Brunch dishes like avo toast at a modern cafe cost around $5-10.

Coffee: you’ll see it for 25 cents at street stalls! At a speciality coffee shop, pay between $1.50 and $3. At Beats Coffee Shop in Santa Ana, expect to pay up to $5 for creative options like espresso tonico. Worth it for coffee snobs!

Final thoughts about solo travel in El Salvador

I had such a memorable time in this friendly, fascinating country. Although it doesn’t have the best tourist infrastructure yet and therefore might not be best suited to beginner travellers, it’s a warm and friendly country with very little crime currently.

El Salvador offers what many countries don’t: the chance to explore a lesser-visited country not yet impacted by mass tourism. Who knows what the future holds but, for now, it’s a gem for sure! Skipping it from your Central America itinerary would be a crying shame.